 |
 |
 |
|||||||||||||||||||||||
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
|||||||||||||||||||
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
||||||||||||||||||||
 |
 |
 |
|
||||||||||||||||||||||
 |
UV Exposure Box By pawon |
 |
|
||||||||||||||||||||||
 |
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||
 |
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||
 |
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||
 |
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||
 |
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||
 |
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||
 |
For this project, I used an old scanner I had laying around and a face tanner I bought at a second-hand store. Basically, I 'merged' them together and added some hardware. From the face tanner, only the UV-lamps are used. The rest you can throw away.
If you buy these lamps seperately, they cost a lot. A second-hand face tanner
can be found for around 5 Euro. A new one, with new lamps, for 20 euro if you're
lucky.
 The old face tanner under surgery.. on the left the fluorecent lamps, on the
right the plastic housing with the ballasts and the starters..
The scanner is completely stripped from it's inner parts after that. Put those
in your 'box-of-junk'.. we just need the plastic housing and the glass.
Now we put those two things together. This can be a tricky part, as the inside
of a scanner in smaller than it looks. First, try some 'configurations' to see
how everything fits. I found it best to put the electronic ballasts on one of
the shorts sides of the scanner, the starters all on one long side of the scanner,
and the yet-to-be-made power supply and control electronics on the other long
side.
 I've used two small metal strips on opposite sides of the scanner to mount the
holders for the uv-fluoresent lamps on.
 The biggest issue here was -space-. The scanner I used was quite small, but it
seemed to be just big enough. It was especially dificult to find the right transformer
to supply the control circuits..
|
 |
|
||||||||||||||||||||||
 |
 |
 |
|
||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|||||||||
